Why the Soap Brow Trend Isn’t Going Anywhere
Cahill likes to go light on the brow makeup or skip it altogether for the most natural, fluffy brows. “Just brush into place until you get the natural wispy fluff desired then let them set on their own,” she adds.
Evans, on the other hand, thinks thin- to medium-thick brow hairs are more suited to soap brows because courser hair is more stubborn to the sky-high hold she’s trying to achieve. She likes to make eyebrows stand out by temporarily tinting hairs. “Brows are naturally slightly lighter at the tips, so when they’re tinted they stand out even more,” she says.
Those with particularly dense brows might need to play around a little bit with the hair placement. “Denser brows tend to need a little more manual separation with your spooley, whereas less dense brows respond pretty quickly with a couple of swipes,” de la Garza says.
Moral of the story: Almost anyone can partake in soap brows, but the look’s longevity and intensity can depend on your natural eyebrow situation.
Which soap is recommended to create soap brows?
For the purpose of eyebrow grooming, you can’t use just any old soap that’s lying around. One factor you should take into account when looking for the right soap is glycerin. According to Dr. Dhaval G. Bhanusali, glycerin is a “great humectant and can keep eyebrow hair hydrated and healthy.” Dr. Bhanusali warns that leaving soap on the face for an extended period of time can be irritating to skin, so he suggests the alternative: a syndet bar such as Dove’s famous Beauty Bar. “These tend to be less irritating — although that’s still possible, and better able to leave on the skin,” he adds.
Aesthetically speaking, Hallberg recommends soap that’s transparent — she uses Muji Bath Soap — to avoid casting hairs with white residue. Luckily, a majority of glycerin-based soaps are transparent. Evans says another great glycerin soap is Pears, but she uses West Barn Co.’s Soap Brow Kit on most clients because it’s specifically formulated to be used directly on eyebrows.
Why not just use regular eyebrow gel? Hallberg says that by makeup artist standards, most brow gels simply don’t have the impact and long-term hold desired, and anyone with uncooperative brow hairs would likely agree. There’s a reason for that, according to cosmetic chemist Ginger King. “Hair gels are water-based,” she says. “Once people sweat, the hold factor can be weakened.” Bar soap, on the other hand, is thicker than gels and pomades, which King says contributes to its strength of hold.