MONCLER X JW ANDERSON FW22
By Crash redaction
Designer Jonathan Anderson employs seemingly boundless creativity, an abstract sensibility, and contemporary edge, creating fashion that is direct, yet twisted, familiar and obscure, straightforward and surprising. His playful juxtaposition of contrasting elements delivers a youthful message in a deftly energetic offering. An upbeat escapism defines JW Anderson’s new collection, expressed through vibrant hues and naive, almost psychedelic patterns that swarm all over, entertaining the eye. The collection, Anderson’s third for Moncler Genius, strengthens the dialogue with Moncler’s functional and outdoorsy roots, and the idea of clothing meant to meet with the elements, while focusing on pattern, color and texture. Shapes are played down but also playful, meant to be used fluidly across genders: padded parkas with leather straps; cropped blousons; zip-up jackets; padded vests; oversized jumpers; sweatshirts, hoodies and teddy fleeces; padded miniskirts and bermudas; roomy trousers. Colors explode in almost primitive motifs: sprayed dots of different width, coiling waves and colorful blotches are either printed on fabric or knitwear, or rendered in jacquard on thick knitted jumpers. Overdyeing gives outerwear an uneven effect, adding another element of visual and textural stimulation. The intensity of colors – shades of yellow, green, baby blue, baby pink, electric blue, brown and coral – is given a crafty opacity by the choice of materials: washed cottons and denims mixed with Moncler’s nylons and technical fabrics. The dry finish to the materials makes the colors feel deep and rich, allowing for maximum impact. An idea of supersizing by way of padding characterizes the accessories: large tote bags and slides with padded details. Chelsea boots sport bouclè details, while crocheted hats are the topping, an out-of-place element that completes the looks.