BRIONI MEN’S SPRING/SUMMER 23
By Crash redaction
The Brioni Spring/Summer 2023 Collection is another foray into Roman nonchalance, in and out of the city, into enchanted rose gardens detached from the hustle of bustle of city life, along marvelous shores. The collection has a breezy, en plein air spirit that is captured in the uncontrived shapes, in the softness of tailoring that, never overpowering the wearer, suggests a relaxed way with formality. All of it in summery, painterly colors. Everything is soft and light, meant to move with the body and accompany gestures. Everything, be it the suit or a trench coat, the sporty, small-collared blouson and the field jacket or the shawl collared evening suit, is sartorially made, looking effortless rather than stiff. Spontaneity is the byword, in fact, condensed in a wardrobe suited for every occasion, from formal to leisure, always with an urban, dignified feel, and accessorized with round toe loafers and leather sandals. A seersucker suit is worn with a matching shirt, and no necktie. Field and workwear jackets draw an elegant line; a bomber jacket cut in supple suede caresses the body just as softly. Ease is a matter of constructions, but also of materials: washed silk, seersucker, extremely light wools and linen, light knit for the underpinnings; textured knitwear meant as outerwear. Roma is finally a way with color for Brioni: a proclivity for hues that are both rich and muted, dense and bright, inspired by its artistic and natural heritage. An amalgamation of cognac brown, earth, yellow, blue, grey, black and white along with accents of pink, orange and baby blue in the suits defines this collection. Evening-wear finds its main inspiration into the Brioni archives, where creativity is ultimately expressed through couture fabrics and unexpected colors. A smattering of elongated, exquisitely tailored outfits brings the same sartorial flavor, the same easy precision within the woman capsule collection, as an expression of subtle sensuality. Unlined, light pieces evolve directly from the men’s wardrobe, culling the same fabrics but playing with extended lengths that suggest flow and grace.