By Roisin Breen

Entitled Mise En Scène the collection from Harris Reed this season explored the performative nature of dress, taking inspiration from the rigorous codes of a debutante ball. These traditionally female tropes; crinolines, corsets, headpieces and embellishments, reimagined for a new fluid society taking center stage.

The structure of gowns were exaggerated and inverted to create new silhouettes; a ball gown was literally upturned, its inner workings forced up above the model’s head and caged in technical organza, whilst a white silk cape took its cue from a crinoline that was upended and worn on the back. Excessive meters of duchess satin, that might be expected to pool along the floor as a train, were instead elevated to create a huge orb around the wearer, focusing attention on the face.

Colors were rich and regal; peacock and royal blue, chartreuse and fuchsia were offset by black velvet, and white silk.

Proportions were exaggerated and distorted creating theatrical shapes including fishtail and ballet-like skirts, cinched in waists and oversized bustles that drape across the hips. Costume jewelry reached new extremes, with celestial and lunar symbols cascading over the chest as a breastplate made in collaboration with long term jewelry partner Missoma.

The headpieces were created with brand collaborator Vivienne Lake, in bluebell and spherical forms that balanced and elongated silhouettes.

This demi-couture collection combined the rigors of traditional dressmaking with the liberation and experimentation on which Harris Reed thrives. As always, deadstock fabric was given a new life in these designs.

“It’s not a concert you are seeing, it’s a fashion show.” – Freddie Mercury

Discover all the looks below.

Photography: Marc Hibbert

Music: Adam Lambert 

Beauty: Make-Up Look designed by Sofia Tilbury using Charlotte Tilbury Beauty & Skincare 

Hair: Ali Pirzadeh @ CLM assisted by Tommy Stayton 

Nails: Simone Cummings @ CLM 

Styling: Harry Lambert @ Bryant 

Casting: Nachum Shonn @ Bryant 

Movement Direction: Simon Donnellon 

Production: FAMILY 

Footwear: Custom Jimmy Choo Govi Boots 

Millinery: Harris Reed in collaboration with Vivienne Lake 

Jewelry: Harris Reed X Missoma