By Roisin Breen

A sequel to preceding seasons, the latest Saint Laurent collection presented Anthony Vaccarello’s evolving vision in the rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection. Art and Saint Laurent have been complicit since the beginning, making Japanese architect Tadao Ando’s radical structure-within-a-structure a natural setting for the concise and intimate presentation. The gleaming concrete cylinder echoed the luminous circle at the center of the show, almost inadvertently, the O shape, a symbol of perfection and purity of execution, became a recurring, pertinent thread at Saint Laurent.

The ultra-focused presentation was characterized by refined, exhaustively thought-out details. A long, fluid silhouette was punctured with assertive shoulders and a narrow waist. A restrained palette – black, white, camel, navy, ashes of silver – reinforced a sense of bold sophistication. Each look was considered to a fault.

An unexpectedly confident chiffon shirt and hooded knitwear tunics were paired with ground-skimming, sweatpants-style trousers that inject ease to the overall precision. Coats introduced a new, ample volume. Shape and length were reconsidered to produce exciting pieces that reinterpreted established brand codes. Soft fabrics – including mohair, cashmere, satin and velvet – contrasted with hard-edged textures. Throughout, the point-of-view was strikingly unified.

The house’s signature dialogue between masculine and feminine continued with increasing fluidity: while borrowed male elements always inform Saint Laurent womenswear, here a reciprocal influence is inescapable. It was evident in the masterful play of proportions and an idea of wrapping the body: further developing the hooded silhouettes of the most recent Saint Laurent women’s collection, a number of men’s looks for Winter 2023 extended upwards to cover the head with cagoules.

Discover the full collection below.