BACKSTAGE AT SACAI FW23
By Crash redaction
Exploring a theme of transformation and playing with the relationship between past, present, and future, sacai designer, Chitose Abe, presents a collection of looks that transfigure into something new. Familiar forms and silhouettes morph and change according to how they’re worn, empowering the wearer to individualize and personalize. A zipper fastened or unfastened transforms the shape of a dress. The jacket becomes a device to convert an outer layer into a backpack style that suggests an entirely new shape.
Re-visiting a friendship from the early days, that’s nearly a decade long, sacai celebrated Moncler and their next 70 years, raising a glass to the future, with a collaborative collection that introduced multi-piece forms that layer, disconnect and re-connect to make new shapes. The functionality of a down jacket converted into a backpack-like detail that was integrated into the formality and polish of suiting; a jacket and blazer hang back to reveal a dress with pleating, lingerie influences and the mix up of feminine elegance with utility that’s always at the heart of sacai’s vocabulary and plays with the idea of ‘slope to apres-ski’.
Utility forms were taken to their ultimate expression, mixing Carhartt with signature sacai splicing and hybridizing treatments of MA1 jackets, parkas and knitwear. The show also introduced the Nike x sacai Magmascape, the latest cross pollination between the two brands.
Images of the bookshelf that’s featured in the movie ‘Interstellar’, an inspiration for Abe, appeared as a print on dresses and jackets, symbolic of the importance of learning from the past and a future informed by what’s gone before, along with sentiments explored in the film’s narrative: ‘We used to look up in the sky and wonder at our place in the stars.’